The Love of Aubergines

Vegetables have such different characters. Some are earnest and honest. Potatoes, onions, celery and carrots fall into this category. Some are flighty: asparagus, for instance, never sticks around for long enough. Some are stars in disguise: who would have thought the rough and knobbly exterior of a celeriac could contain such depth? But the aubergine - the aubergine is just glamour in your veg rack.

Beauty in a bowl

I so love aubergines. My family love aubergines. William Morris would have loved aubergines - they are the prime exemplar of something that is both beautiful and useful. Honest, I would buy them simply to decorate the kitchen because they are so lovely to look at. That gorgeous purple, almost black, glossy skin, which always looks as if someone has just finished polishing it. I have a bowl which sits on the dresser, and is there just to receive aubergines. They are the royalty of veg. (Okay I know they're actually a fruit, but so are a lot of things we call vegetables.)

The aubergine bowl, which deserves a picture of its own.
(Potter: Victor Holst)

One of the great things about aubergines is that when you cook them, the flavour can be so rich and complex that even avowed carnivores will accept that veggie cooking can be good. So the aubergine can also take on the role of ambassador.

Reducing meat consumption is good for several reasons. Firstly, it's better for your health. Everyone knows that too much red meat is bad for you. Too many calories are bad for you, too, and many meats are a calorie-dense mouthful. Secondly, a lot of meat comes to the table from animals that have had a bloody awful life. I think it's better to eat meat less often, so I can afford to buy certified free-range and organic meat. I have no problem with the ethics of eating meat per se, but I do have a problem with cruelty and inhumane practices, with animals cooped up in pens and barns the year long, and being pumped full of prophylactic antibiotics rather than being allowed a lifestyle which supports natural health. Thirdly, meat production uses enormous amounts of the planet's resources to produce small amounts of protein which are mostly eaten by the over-indulged, over-developed sections of earth society. If we all ate less meat, the planet would be a happier place.




Chicken, eggs, and eggplants. What a team.

 
So, back to the aubergines. I thought I'd share with you one of my favourite aubergine recipes. But if you decide to make it, make sure you've bought your aubergines a couple of days before you plan to use them, so you've got at least 48 hours to admire their glossy loveliness!

Aubergine Parmigiana
To serve 6 people

4 medium-sized aubergines
2 medium-sized red onions, chopped
3 or 4 garlic cloves, depending on size, finely chopped
4 x 400g tins of plum tomatoes (although chopped ones will do)
About a teaspoon of brown sugar

About 30 - 40g of Parmesan Cheese, finely grated
2 balls of Mozzarella. I use the reduced fat kind, but that's optional. In fact the Mozzarella is optional. If you don't use it, just chuck in a bit more Parmesan.

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Spray olive oil, or reduced fat spray such as Frylight
Table salt (the cheap stuff)


Firstly, trim the stalks from the aubergines and slice lengthways about 1/2 to 1cm thick. Sprinkle each slice with the cheap salt and layer in a colander. Leave it for an hour or so to draw out the juices. Then rinse the salt off the slices and pat them dry.If short of time, half an hour will do. I have cooked this recipe omitting this step, but it isn't as good as the flavours don't seem to develop as well.

Make the tomato sauce by gently frying the onions and garlic in a few squirts of olive oil for about 10 minutes, until soft. It's best to use a large, wide pan for this, as it will help your sauce thicken nicely. Then add the tomatoes and their juice, breaking them up with a wooden spoon. Bring up to a brisk simmer, and continue to simmer for about half an hour, stirring frequently so it doesn't stick. The sauce should now be thick and really rich. Taste, and season with sea salt and pepper. Stir in the sugar to taste.

While the sauce is simmering, cook the aubergine slices. This is traditionally done by frying/griddling in olive oil, but I like to reduce the fat content, so I layer the slices on a large baking tray, spraying each layer lightly with olive oil or more generously with Frylight, and bake in the oven at about 200C until they are tender and beginning to brown slightly. This takes about 15 - 20 minutes.

When the sauce is done and the aubergines are cooked, you can assemble the dish. Layer a third of the aubergines on the bottom of an oven-proof dish (I use one that's about 25 x 23 x 9cm), then follow with a third of the sauce. Scatter a third of the mozzarella on top of this, along with (no, you've guessed wrong) a quarter of the Parmesan. Repeat for two more layers, but using the remaining half of the Parmesan on the top.

Bake for about 30 minutes at 180C. It should be bubbling, and the cheese on top should be going golden, but not brown! We like it with salad, and Waitrose's delicious organic multigrain pavé bread, but any good bread will do. In fact, home-made is even better. And leftovers are delicious with a jacket potato.

Oh. There aren't any leftovers...

I'll post a picture of the real thing next time I make it. Watch this space!